If there is one thing that is distributed around the table, it is politics. And the dishes themselves can become a subject of dispute. Take, in any case, beef burger. There is no way to delay publisher Anthony for Iommi-Amunategi (Nuriturfu); “It’s definitely a right-wing dish. Everything is said in two words: first beef, good bidosh with good saucewhose breeding is known one of four or five major environmental wounds. Then Burgundy, the most traditional region in the world. ” But then what will the dish on the left look like? “Of course with sauerkraut” responds to wine merchant Matthew L. (Sémélé, Paris XIe). “This is a cheap, vitamin C-rich, easy-to-preserve dish that can save the entire population from winter hunger. And then, despite the variations, we can talk about the union of sauerkraut.
Because that is what is endangered in this dishonest, therefore, fascinating debate. left or right, by his very personal definition, dishes are torn from one end of the political spectrum. To continue this week’s combat operations between two rounds (mill), let’s ask the questions that irritate us. On this day, the sandwich with ham and butter is right or left.
“Ham and butter are right-handed with nuances.” Nicholas Kaiser-Brill (author: Varasism և: Amazing food, ed. Nuriturfu)
“When we think of bacon butter, we think of the urban proletariat of the late 19th century. Now what characterized the urban proletariat in the 19th century was bread, another product greased with butter, coffee. And this choice is not innocent, because the proletariat of that time could eat lentil soup or puree, like a dahlia. Now this triple is chosen on purpose, as opposed to what the villagers eat, porridge or baking bread every six months (that’s why they soak the bread in soup or wine). Bread and butter are a way to be different. it is to be against peasant misery. And inevitably the bread with butter puts in sight this miserable side of the left, “cursed from the ground.” The food of the workers is eaten as opposed to the food of the more miserable. The proletarians of the time knew this very well, France was very rural. Not to mention the ham, which is a luxury. No one in the village ate food every day. I continue to believe that ham և butter is a cultural structure that symbolizes excellence.
What is interesting today is the ham. By eating the ham demonstratively, it consciously opposes those who do not eat it, such as vegetarians or those who do not use it for religious reasons. Vegetarianism was born at the end of the 19th century with the realization of the welfare of animals և “purity of the body”. Living in harmony with nature without exploiting animals can be considered a part of leftist values, where the consumption of ham can be seen as a theistic way of showing one’s superiority over animals. After all, Algeria was French until 1962. After the proletariat appropriated ham and butter, in Algeria և Metropolitan France, those who prepared it consumed it, as opposed to the Muslim proletariat.
Nicholas Kaiser-Brill is a doctoral student at the University of Regensburg. He worked on the vegetable fat colony imported from France and Germany in 1870-1930.
“Ham and butter are on the left.” Aitor Alfonso (food critic, author)
“There is puritanism on the left, which would prevail, where it would be wrong to get pleasure. the right and the extreme right, they would be eaten by crooks. But the right does not have the monopoly of a party. If a dish is to be politically questioned, it must be done with advanced semiology, the methods of its consumption must be questioned. In the case of ham և butter, questions arise about the meat. What would it be like to eat left-handed meat? Personally, I believe in the human tradition of murder, which will allow us to reinterpret the relationship between death and all food. A carrot that we eat, didn’t we kill it? How to make it acceptable? Making things poetic, making cooking a fun funeral ritual. When we are aware of a slaughtered animal, we definitely eat less meat, or better yet, otherwise. What does it mean to raise or kill a beast? What is the reality of the profession of slaughterers, modern butchers of the society? You have to enjoy it in a different way, you have to enjoy your time, you have to enjoy having a political mindset of pleasure, realizing the consequences of pleasure. Desire that ignores the conditions of its pleasure is the opposite, a blind desire. That’s why I believe in culinary rituals, how can one believe in funeral rites.
Left-handed desire cannot be a predator or a relationship of deprivation. All ascetic speeches are speeches of hatred of the body. The desire should be thought not in political, but in social, industrial, ecological, poetic terms. Not moral. Otherwise we sink into “I do not give” or a guilty desire. Eating less, making a savings egg desirable, this is where the left plays. The challenge is always the desire. It is necessary to create a discourse and imagination about vegetables in order for vegetables to be desirable. However, the political project of the left is for everyone to be able to afford a delicacy such as meat from time to time. Giving access to good things in large numbers, we enter the project of social left. do not limit the pleasure to the elite.
Aïtor Alfonso has just published the book by Nouriturfu editions Table conversation.