A sauce with soothing aromas and colors, which is not better in early autumn. How to make the perfect tomato sauce? Alessandra Pierini from Genoa, who heads the Parisian delicacy RAP, reveals her secrets.
Passata, soffritto, sugo or even salsa… There are many denominations that can give rise to what we French consider to be a simple tomato sauce. This elixir is the basis of many Italian cuisines, especially in the south, where the fruits grow under the sun. It can be rejected in dozens of different ways, depending on the application, by region, with the same unchanged rules. Alessandra Pierini, manager of sponge cake delicatessen RAP in Paris, shares her grandmother’s secrets for making a tomato sauce worthy of her name.
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Fresh tomatoes, canned, swallowed?
There is no need to avoid canning like the plague. The specialist assures him from the beginning. “We will always make a better sauce with well-canned tomatoes than a badly bought fresh one.” If it is harvested at the peak of the season and canned, the jam will remain a good product that will preserve the aroma and texture. Italians have a habit of preparing their canned food for tasting from June to September tomatoes always full of flavors in winter.
As the saying goes, “nothing prevents you from making your own sauce with just whole tomatoes, San Marzano (Extended variety from southern Italy that can be found on the market, Editor’s note) “Crushed with a fork or cherry tomatoes with a little olive oil,” adds Alessandra Pierini. They also allow you to radically change the taste and texture of the sauce.
On the other hand, the concentrate is never used in Italy as a base for sauces, except for a teaspoon for cooking, or as a spice to accentuate the color in small portions.
Order և Ingredients:
The sequence of integration of the components is essential for the implementation of the preparation. Thus, the Italian advises “always fry olive oil with garlic or onion (if you choose to use it in your sauce), before the tomatoes, so that they become translucent.” Be careful to follow the preparation carefully so as not to burn them, which would give a bitter-unpleasant taste to the sauce. Finally, herbs are added at the end of cooking to take full advantage of their freshness.
It all depends on the consistency you want to achieve. The longer it is cooked, the more the aromas will condense, like reduced or even candied juice. This method of cooking the ingredients is typical of northern Italian recipes. since sofito, for which sliced or canned tomatoes are ideal to cook for as long as possible. Conversely, the shorter the cooking time, the more liquid the sauce is, retaining a slightly denser aroma of plain tomatoes.
Good to know. Tomatoes are selected according to the desired cooking. Choose a variety for a short meal of Vesuvius’s piano:. For storage, this variety is harvested in July, then stored in 1 or 2 kg hanging bunches, used when it is no longer available in the market from September to April. For a sauce that will be fair to this unique ingredient, coat the core with a mild olive oil.
For a longer meal, canned San Marzano or any fresh tomato will be suitable behind the scenes. Indeed, with the addition sofito Ingredients such as onions, celery, carrots, as well as sugars and spices, the aromatic characteristics of the main product will be distorted in any case.
The type of boiler is selected according to the desired texture. For a less crunchy, quick-cooking sauce, ideal for frying cooked pasta, use a wide, shallow pan over medium-high heat. If you want a cooked և rich sauce (among other things, to use lasagna) based on pellet jars, which is perfect sofitoWe will take a medium-sized pot with a thick bottom, the cooking will be half open.
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Recipe from the south of Rome
Put two cloves of crushed garlic in a frying pan, fry them in olive oil. Add 500 grams of diced, backstage, canned or fresh tomatoes և a few grains of salt and pepper, then cook quickly over medium-high heat, usually while the pasta is cooking (usually 10-15 minutes).
The result of the operation is a bright red sauce with a good shine, in which the fruit is more emphasized. This corresponds to a sufficient amount of sauce for 4 people, as well as a rather neutral base for seasoning spaghetti, linguine-penne or making eggplant or fish sauce …
Traditional և original versions
The sauce, as traditionally made in southern Rome, or “Sugo al pomodoro”, will most often serve as a base. After mastering it, here is what can be decorated a little more.
All’arrabiata sauce (chili, garlic, olive oil), literally “raging sauce”, spicy versionaglio e olio: (garlic յուղ olive oil), fast cooking is one of the most basic sauces to which we simply add chili peppers to cook a little more.
Putaneska (olive, lead, anchovies), just as delicious, can be cooked with salted anchovy fillet, lead-salted olives without stones, ideally with spaghetti al dente.
Pizza sauce This is probably what we eat most often with fresh or dried oregano, which can be used to cook thin veal cutlets, which is mainly used as a base for pizza.
Tomato jam It is a sweet option for grilled և aged cheeses, which can be prepared with different eggs, depending on the desired sugar / acid ratio.
Onion varieties can change the taste of the sauce. Red onions, for example, will give a sweeter breath. He is possible!add vinegar to get a more concentrated, more acidic version, approaching ketchup for use on meat. Depending on the region, Italians add many different vegetables, such as zucchini or peppers. What’s even more amazing is that in northern Italy you can even add butter instead of olive oil to make the sauce richer and more forgiving.